Just 2 screws.Gammy, an adaptive screen brightness GUI tool that that was originally only available for Microsoft Windows, was ported to Linux (X11 only) recently. It is easy to unhook if I need to go on the road. I got tried of shoveling sawdust and not sawing, so I installed this system and I'm glad I did. This system is credited to a fellow sawyer friend, Mr. I use my front end loader to move the sawdust when it builds up too much. I expanded my 4" PVC pipe to discharge further away from my mill and the only material that I had was some top rail that I took down from a fence. The covers over my blade seem to help prevent bark from entering and exiting though the dust chute. These fingers would also catch any bark that could get by. My Wood-Mizer has several fingers in the dust chute to catch the blade if it breaks before discharging. Is that so you can move the discharge easily to a new spot? I like the simple tripod to hold up the 4" PVC. I've seen a used hay elevator set alongside the sawmill to catch the sawdust, and when it was full, they would turn on the hay elevator to dump the sawdust. Do you have problems with bark hanging up? It seems to work well on all types of sawdust except cypress. I use a dust collection system just like in my woodworking shop, without the bags to collect the sawdust. ![]() Maybe I'm missing something, but how do you get the dust to blow that far? ![]() I'm using 4" drain pipe.Ĭlick here for higher quality, full size image I put a threaded swivel inline as my mill goes back and forth, so it doesn't bind. The system I use moves almost all the sawdust away from my mill. If you're not re-sawing any dried lumber on your mill, though, you won't have to worry about that. The only drawback is kiln dried lumber, when set on the mill to straight line rip prior to going through the molder, makes dust - not even sawdust - and very little of it makes it to the extractor. We pull sawdust through 30 feet of 4" tube before it gets to the extractor and from there it is sent uphill and into our holding tank. The 5 horse chip extractor runs at 3000 CFM and does a great job pulling sawdust. We disconnect the flex tube that goes to one chute on the molder and reattach it to the mill when sawing with the mill. When we installed our Baker Planer Molder, we also put in a Baker 3-phase chip extractor (4-port). I don't use it when milling cypress logs. I installed a cheap Harbor Freight dust collection system (1 1/2hp 110volts) above my sawmill and it carries the sawdust about 50 feet from my mill. For my band mill it takes about 2500CFM to move the dust well. You can move the sawdust without too much problem, but the fine sawdust from a band mill needs a pretty large cyclone in order for it to fall out. All that would cost me around $350-$400 altogether, and would significantly cut down on my dust exposure. This isn't for fine dust, and since I'm in a rural area, I would be exhausting out the roof if I used a cyclone. If I want to get fancy, I thought of ordering a generic cyclone from the guy that sells them on eBay and hooking that to the dust collector. ![]() I had the idea of finding a cheap used dust collector locally and hooking it up to my sawmill via an overhead pivoting arm with a HD flex hose running down to the bandmill's head, similar to the hose arm at a DIY car wash. I am planning on building a 30x30 pavilion type structure to house my mill and store pallets of wood (both for air drying and already dried wood). I have been sorting out several options for dust collection. I just moved to a new location and am setting up my operation in an existing 30圆0.
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